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Everything you need to know about the autumn–winter trends in 590 words on Pitti Uomo 93
The shapes of the outfits, but also the colours and the way to wear them. In other words, all the best of Pitti Immagine Uomo 2018
Pitti Immagine Uomo opened the year of men’s fashion in Florence, with shows and events that between December 8 and 12 transformed the city into the capital of trends. Before the northward mass migration of the fashion crowd to attend Milano Moda Uomo, let’s take stock of what La Moda has decided are the trends of autumn–winter 2018/2019.
Let's start wth Brooks Brothers, which with the fashion-show-event-exhibit organised to celebrate the brand’s 200 years at Palazzo Vecchio, brought back into vogue a relaxed fashion, a nonchalance in wearing outfits we hadn’t seen since the 1950s. Jackets tucked into the trousers included.
The other important exhibit of Pitti Uomo 93 was Roberto Capucci’s Capucci Dionisiaco. It includes men’s outfits designed as if they were “fantastic and mythological creatures that appear to soar into the air, free from the constraints of style, gender, and conventions — dressed and undressed of fantasies as well as geometries…”, writes Ilaria Ciuti in La Repubblica.
Going back to fashion shows, Pitti Uomo 2018 was a first for Alessandro Squarzi, the influencer chosen by Esquire as “the best-dressed man in the world”, who presented in Florence a footwear capsule designed for Fanga that revolves entirely around the tassel of classic loafers, which in this case was moved between the buckles of monk shoes.
Once more we talk about first times with Beyond Closet and Bmuet(te), the two brands of the Concept Korea group, which at Pitti Uomo 93rd edition launched a menswear collection inspired by the surrealist poet Comte de Lautréamont, whereby different outfit structures meet in a single shape, through a language made of wool, cotton, and leather. Everything in black and white.
And what about other colours of autumn–winter? There’s the cabernet red by Brunello Cucinelli (actually the Ultra Violet selected by Pantone as the colour of the year), which the brand combines with browns and greys. As Marcello Veneziani explains from the pages of the Corriere della Sera, “colour must be a unique piece of someone’s look. A man must start from the jacket with its somewhat patterned, sartorial fabrics, light but with body or in velvet. It is meant to be worn ever closer to the body, but its shoulders are softer, as if the item were half a size too big”. Of the three buttons, “only the first two are to be fastened”. It is worn with a chambray shirt of denim taste and a grey tie. More relaxed are also the trousers: “they widen at the waist with one or two pincers; differently from the 1950s Gregory Peck, however, they come down narrow, due to the influence of today’s jogging style”.
Sports inspire also Z Zegna, which allows itself to be influenced by a mountain-going style and by the colours of Oasi Zegna, choosing warm tones like forest green, crocus, chestnut, pine, chanterelle yellow, slate, and berry red for items of clothing with loose-fitting, yet contained, silhouettes, rounded jackets, and tapered trousers.
As to the shapes, “the shirt collars are Italian style, the trousers brush the ankles but do not leave them bare, and the jackets are tight but not skimpy. Exceedingly slim fits are banned (those are for the super-fashionable tribe)”, summarises Maria Corbi in La Stampa.
And now everyone move to Milan, where Giorgio Armani, the prince of Milan’s fashion, awaits; he is the iconic figure who “coined the ‘Cary Grant rule’: dress so that, when seeing a photo of yourself, you won’t be able to determine its date” (as Maria Corbi also writes in La Stampa).
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